Used car buying guide: Land Rover Freelander Mk1

On the road, the Freelander lacks the directness and precision of a modern SUV. Its soft suspension, for example, causes it to lean heavily in corners. Off road, however, it will leave them stranded and digging holes.

The facelift came in 2003. The nose was reworked, while the old boxy headlights were replaced by Range Rover-style projector items that make this later version look much fresher.

Build quality also improved. Trims ranged from basic E (no electric door mirrors or air con, but that means there’s less to go wrong) to HSE, our favourite, with air-con, leather and foglights. It has a CD changer, too, if you remember what that is.

Rare but interesting ones include Sport from 2003 (the ride height is reduced by 30mm for sharper on-road performance)and Kalahari G4 in Tangier Orange.

Interior space is reasonable enough for four people, while lowering the back seat turns the Freelander into a useful workhorse. The five-door has better rearward visibility than the soft-top, which has a thick B-pillar and a narrow rear side window. At first, the HDC system had a very rough few edges, while the front and rear axles had different ratios that caused uneven tyre wear. Both issues were resolved from late 2000.

This model offers an inexpensive route into the world of Land Rover. As the brand’s prices march ever northwards, we should be more grateful.

What we said then

4 February 1998: “No other sport utility vehicle on sale in the UK strikes a better balance between refinement, handling and off-road ability. The absence of a low ratio hinders the Freelander up steep, slippery slopes, [but] downhill slopes are a piece of cake, thanks to Land Rover’s Hill Descent Control, standard on XEi models.

What the owner says

Adam Cook: “My Freelander is the rare threedoor with removable hard-top. It’s not as practical as the five-door and visibility isn’t as good, but I like the looks. It was registered in 2006 so is one of the last ones and has done 100,000 miles. Being a TD4, it does around 30mpg. In recent months, the driveshafts and rear brakes have been replaced, but there’s no rust. It’s very reliable. I’ve been to the Isle of Skye in it and through all weathers and it has never missed a beat.”

Land Rover Freelander common problems

Engine: Early 1.8 petrols suffered cooling issues, but most were resolved with the fitment of an upgraded head gasket. Many surviving cars will have had this work done, but check around the oil filler for oil and water ‘mayonnaise’ anyway. Check the coolant is fresh and topped up, too. The timing belt should be changed every 72,000 miles or seven years. The L-series diesel is trusty, but the TD4 is the one to buy. It has a timing chain and is reliable, except for some issues with the fuel-injection system and turbocharger.

Gearbox: This requires careful scrutiny. At motorway speeds and in reverse, listen for noises and creaking. Inspect the transfer case at the rear for oil leaks. Make sure gearchanges are positive and the clutch isn’t slipping.

Steering, suspension and brakes: Check the condition of the hydraulic steering pipework and connections. The steering itself should be reasonably direct and precise. On the road, the ride should be soft and car-like, but expect some rattles and looseness from worn bushes and track-rod ends, which should be picked up by an MOT test. Pre-2001 Freelanders have front discs and rear drums and later ones discs all-round. Either way, check the car pulls up straight and that discs and calipers are in good condition. Don’t trust the handbrake on post-1997 cars.

Electrics: There’s quite a bit of new tech, so check there are no warning lights showing for the ABS, hill descent and traction control systems. If they’re illuminated, suspect sensor issues or, more expensive, a problem with the four-wheel drive system. The electric windows can fail, especially the one in the tailgate. If you can be bothered, the air-con will likely need regassing.

Interior: Don’t expect this to be in the first flush, but having established that the windows go up and down and the central locking works, be on the lookout for unsightly damage, such as a cracked dashboard, ripped upholstery or a leaking sunroof, which can cause electrical problems.

Body: Corrosion shouldn’t be an issue even at this age. Instead, check the underside, sills, front and rear overhangs and driveshafts for damage caused by overly ambitious off-roading.

Also worth knowing

The Freelander has a so-called viscous coupling unit (VCU) that’s meant to transfer power to the rear wheels when the fronts begin to slip.

Unfortunately, with age, the viscous fluid can become thick and the unit unresponsive. Rather than replace it, some owners just disconnect or even remove the propshaft and live with front-wheel drive. Check that the propshaft is present, connected and transferring drive as it should.